Turn your old dresser into something you will love with this step by step tutorial on how to paint furniture with chalk paint, and how to glaze over chalk paint! Here’s the Blue Painted Dresser Makeover!
Get more ideas for DIY Dresser Makeovers!
Can you believe that we picked this dresser up for free from Facebook Marketplace?
It was in rough condition when we picked it up, but these are my favorite makeovers!
Let’s dive in!
Blue Painted Dresser Makeover – Step by Step
- Prep the dresser for paint.
- Paint 2-3 coats.
- Seal the chalk paint with poly.
- Glaze over the chalk paint.
- Seal the glaze with 2-3 coats of poly.
- Paint and attach new hardware.
- Admire your work!
Get the Secrets!
Grab this super convenient Ebook with all of our secrets on how to repair furniture for only $5. You can print it out and have instant access whenever you come across damaged furniture, and know exactly how to fix it!
Click on the picture of the book to purchase!
Supplies Used for the Tall Navy Blue Dresser:
- Vintage Empire Dresser
- Sandpaper to Prep for Paint
- Clear Shellac to Prep for Paint
- Paint Sprayer or Paint Brush
- Country Chic Paint in Peacoat
- Country Chic Paint in Jitterbug
- My Favorite Polyurethane in Stain
- Country Chic Paint Black Tinted Glaze
- Cheap Paint Brush for Glaze
- Vinyl Gloves for Glazing
- Baby Wipes for Glaze
How much paint do you need?
You can paint a dresser about this size with less than one pint of paint. I don’t think that the sample sizes would be enough, even when you use both colors.
You shouldn’t need any more than a sample size of the glaze though! (Glaze goes very far!)
One can of shellac should be enough as well.
Repairing Damaged Veneer
This dresser needed a lot of extra attention before I could start painting! Look at that top left drawer!
The veneer had to be removed on the top drawers, and then filled in in other areas.
If your furniture has chipped veneer that needs filled in, this is the best way to repair chipped veneer!
How to Prep for Paint (and why you shouldn’t skip this step!)
I know this is the step that always gets skipped over. But its honestly super important, even if you use chalk paint!
Even though most chalk paint says that it will adhere to anything. Trust me, and don’t believe it. Spend 10-15 minutes on a little bit of prep work so your new painted furniture can last a long time!
If your furniture has any slickness or shine to it, it MUST be scuff sanded (this should only take a few minutes) so then your paint has something to hold onto.
Otherwise the paint can easily scratch off, or even peel off!
Simply scuff sand with 220 grit sandpaper (this sandpaper is the BEST kind!). Rub it all over the dresser, making sure that it removes all of the shine.
Then remove the dust with a vacuum hose attachment and / or a damp lint free rag. For the best dust removal, I like to use these tack cloths! They pick up all the dust and don’t leave any lint behind!
I know chalk paint says that you don’t need to prime. But, they don’t tell you about bleedthrough issues you will most likely have if you don’t.
Bleed through is a nasty bugger that shows up as little stains in your paint. No matter how many coats of paint you put on, they will just keep showing up.
And when you seal your chalk paint, they get even worse! (Just when you think you’re done with your project!)
To combat that mess, I allllways give my furniture 2 coats of clear shellac.
Shellac and strong oil based primers are the only way to really stop the bleed through.
So take your furniture outside, spray a coat a coat or two of clear shellac on, and wait about an hour to paint.
*Bonus! Shellac will help your chalk paint adhere even better!!
*Bonus 2.0! Since it’s clear, you can distress your paint and not see ugly white primer underneath!
If you’re painting laminate furniture, you need to use a specific primer to really ensure that your paint will stick. Check out how to paint laminate furniture here.
Painting Furniture Navy Blue
Okay, finally we can move onto the paint!
I mixed two colors to get this stunning blue chalk paint!
I used my cheap little Wagner Double Duty Paint Sprayer to paint on 2 coats, but you can use a paint brush!
If I have to use a paint brush, I choose these Zibra paint brushes (the round one is my favorite for furniture!)
One amazing thing about chalk paint is how fast it dries! Make sure to let your paint dry between coats.
This is what it looked like after the paint was dry. (And a couple of coats of poly!)
There’s something missing huh?
Yep! I put a black glaze over the chalk paint!
How to Glaze Over Chalk Paint
Now onto the big question, how to glaze over chalk paint.
Need to SEE how to glaze? Check out this video on how I glaze over chalk paint.
Chalk paint is very porous, so the second you put a glaze right on top of the chalk paint, the glaze will soak right in. Trust me, it’s not pretty!
You need to be able to move the glaze around to create this look!
The trick to glazing over chalk paint is to seal the chalk paint with poly before glazing.
Water-based poly creates a surface that is perfect for glaze!
Seal the Chalk Paint
First step is to seal the chalk paint with 1-2 coats of waterbased poly (the best stuff!)
You need to make sure you completely cover the chalk paint so the glaze doesn’t soak into the chalk paint.
Then you need to let the poly fry for at least 24 hours. Otherwise, all the moisture from the glaze and wiping it around will lift up the chalk paint and make it very easy to scratch.
How to Glaze Painted Furniture
I like to apply two coats of glaze.
- First, the base coat. Basically I like to get a nice even layer all over.
- After the first coat is completely dry, I add extra glaze in the corners to create some shadowing.
I also like to mix a little bit of water into my glaze so it doesn’t dry as fast. (I don’t measure how much water, but its not much.)
Simply brush the glaze all over with a cheap paint brush. Make sure to really get it in any details, corners, and crevices.
Work in small sections (like one drawer, or side of the dresser).
I like to brush it on thicker so it doesn’t dry as fast.
I also don’t let the glaze sit for more than 20-30 seconds.
Use baby wipes to wipe off the glaze.
Wipe in long passes that go the same direction as the wood grain did. And try to make it not look streaky.
Remember, you can easily add more glaze, but you can’t remove it once it’s dry. (You’ll need to paint over it, ad basically start over.)
Every single time I start glazing a piece of furniture it takes me a little bit to get back into the groove of it. But its gets easier as you go!
When you’re happy with the base layer, let it dry completely! (Brushing on more glaze while the first coat of glaze is wet will lift up the first coat of glaze.)
For the second coat, I find myself “dry brushing” the glaze on.
I get a tiny tiny amount of glaze onto the tip of my brush, then I dab it onto a paper towel to get rid of excess paint.
Then I lightly brush the glaze on in the corners and feather it out a bit.
If I put too much on, I quickly wipe it off and try again.
If I don’t put enough on, I get a little bit more glaze and dry brush a little bit more in that area.
When you’re happy with it, let it dry completely.
Seal the Glaze
After the glaze, I spray 3 more coats of my favorite water-based poly.
The poly helps protect the paint and glaze from getting scratched and helps give it a sheen (so you can easily wipe down the dresser).
You can brush the poly on if you don’t have a sprayer!
Learn ALL of my tips and tricks on How to Spray Polyurethane here!
I hope that all makes sense! If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below!
PIN THIS TUTORIAL FOR LATER