Today we have a fun dining table makeover for you! Thanks to a client, we’re spray painting furniture gold!
I’m always amazed at the ideas my clients have, and this one just rocked my socks!
Get more Furniture Makeover Ideas here.
Her inspiration came from an antique gold candle in her home. Then we recreated the look for her on this old french dining table.
It started out as a white farmhouse-style table; a white bottom and stained wood top. I didn’t grab a before photo, but you can see a little bit of what it used to be in the photo below.
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- Citristrip Chemical Stripper
- Mineral Spirits
- 0000 Steel Wool
- Orbital Sander
- 220 Grit Orbital Sander Discs (these are the best brand!)
- 220 Grit Sandpaper for Sanding by Hand
- Tack Cloth (so much better at cleaning off dust than a rag!)
- Painters Tape
- Rustoleum Bright Metallic Gold Spray Paint
- Java Gel Stain
- Minwax Wipe on Poly
Spray Painting Furniture Gold: Dining Table Makeover
- Remove Stain from Wood
- Spray Paint the Table Gold
- Gel Stain Over Paint
- Gel Stain the Table Top
- Topcoat the Gel Stain
Step 1: Remove Stain from Wood
To start out, the top of the kitchen table needed to be stripped of the stain, so we could give it a fresh coat of stain.
You basically have two options:
- Strip the stain off with a chemical stripper
- Sand the stain off with a power sander
This tabletop was made with a veneer, so I really didn’t want to sand the whole thing down with my power sander, and risk ruining the table.
If you sand too far on a thin wood veneer on a piece of furniture, and then you try to stain it, the stain doesn’t take evenly to the wood under the veneer.
So I went with the chemical stripper.
What to do when you sanded a veneer too deep?
You can try using different colors of gel stain to paint on a stained finish over the sanded area.
But, more than likely, you will just have to paint over all of it with paint instead of stain.
So if you really want a stained look, it’s probably not worth it to use a power sander and risk blowing through the veneer.
How to Strip a Table Top
The best stripper in my opinion is CitriStrip.
Just brush on the stripper, let it sit until it looks all gooey and bubbly. (Yes- those are official terms on the bottle…okay maybe not, but it will make sense when you see it.)
Then scrape it all off, wipe it down with mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool and let it dry out.
These are jam-packed tutorials that can help you with how to strip a tabletop!
Sanding a Veneer Table Top
Once the wood was all dry, I grabbed the orbital sander with 220 grit and lightly sanded away.
Yeah, I know that I just said that I didn’t want to use my power sander on this veneer tabletop.
But hear me out.
Once the stain was mostly gone, I needed to just remove the little bit of stain left, and smooth out the wood grain.
I used 220 grit instead of coarse sandpaper to keep the power sander from taking off too much.
Then I made sure to not press down on the sander, and I made sure to move slowly, but keep moving, so I didn’t sand down one spot too much.
Just be gentle or sand it by hand.
Step 2: Spray Paint the Table Gold
Once all of the old stain was off of the table top, I turned my focus to the apron (the white painted part of the table top) and legs of the table.
I lightly sanded the old white finish with 220 grit sandpaper (by hand) and wiped it down with a tack cloth.
Then I taped off the edge of the table top, all the way around, with painters tape.
And then I laid a few broken-down cardboard boxes on the top of the table to keep the paint from getting on the freshly stripped top.
(You could also just paint the base before you strip the top, but then you may run into the stripper dripping onto your fresh coat of paint.)
I painted the apron and legs of the table in Rustoleum’s Bright Coat Metallic Gold.
This paint has stuck so well to all of the pieces I have ever used it on. It is amazing!
If you’re working with raw wood though, I would recommend a primer under the gold paint to help the gold spray paint or any gold paint have better coverage.
See how we primed and spray-painted a dresser right here!
The apron and legs took two full coats, and then one extra touch up coat in a few places. It dried super fast in between coats, but I let it dry for at least 4 hours before I started the antiquing glaze.
Step 3: Gel Stain Over Paint
And then I antiqued the gold paint with more of the Java Gel Stain.
Yep, you can put gel stain over paint!
Since this metallic gold spray paint is glossy, it didn’t soak in very much. Instead of just kind of sat on the surface.
I wiped it on like a glaze though.
Update: Looking back, I kind of cringe at the gel stain glaze on this table. I’ve gotten better at glazing over the years, so I shared a tutorial on how to glaze over chalk paint here. It definitely takes some practice, but glazing furniture is so pretty.
With latex gloves and old t-shirt scraps as my rags, I wiped the gel stain on, let it start to dry for a few seconds, then wiped it off with a clean rag.
We wanted to get it dark, but still show the beautiful gold underneath.
When wiping on and off I tried to keep the gel stain in uniform long strokes.
I also left more stain in the cracks of the details than on the raised and flat places.
I let the gel stain dry for a few days so the top coat wouldn’t ruin all of my hard work.
Step 4: Gel Stain the Table Top
While the stain dried, I stained the table top with two coats of the same stuff, Java Gel Stain. With at least 8 hours of dry time between each coat.
This stain is thicker than normal stain, but I used the same technique as I would with regular wood stain.
I wiped the stain on with the grain, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipde the stain off (with a clean rag) going with the grain.
I love the richness of Java Gel Stain!
Step 5: Topcoat Gel Stain
After both coats of gel stain were completely dry, I finished off the stained table top with 3 coats of Minwax’s Wipe On Polyurethane in Satin finish.
It comes in a spray can that is so much easier to apply. But they both work great.
The Minwax Wipe On Polyurethane adds an extra richness to stained wood.
But since it is oil based, never use it on white or light paint since it will add a yellow tone to the paint. (Waterbased doesn’t turn yellow like oil based does.)
But since we were working with gold paint, it was fine to use the oil based polyurethane.
This table was such a fun project! I love how creative my client is. I would have never thought of this finish, but now that I have done it, I sure can’t get enough of it!
Where do you find your inspiration? I would love to hear from you!
Have a wonderful week!
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