How to Glaze Over Chalk Paint

Make your painted furniture stand out from the rest with an antiqued glazed finish. Here’s the best way to Glaze Over Chalk Paint!

Get more painting techniques for furniture here!


Before painting a dresser blue with antique glaze

Antiquing Glaze on top of chalk paint can make any details on your furniture pop out!

But there are a few tricks that you should know about before you start trying to glaze over chalk paint.

If you don’t take these steps, you’ll most likely end with a mess on your hands.

And that’s just frustrating because painting furniture is time-consuming!

So let’s dig into how to glaze over chalk paint!

How to Glaze Over Chalk Paint

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Close view of navy blue dresser with dark glaze

Supplies Used:

Using Valspar Antiquing Glaze Over Chalk Paint

  1. Paint with Chalk Paint
  2. Topcoat with Waterbased Polyurethane
  3. Glaze with Valspar Antiquing Glaze
  4. Topcoat with Water-Based Polyurethane

Watch the full video tutorial on Glazing Over Chalk Paint process here!

Paint with Chalk Paint

First I prepped it for paint. Click over to this post on how to prepare furniture for paint to learn all of our tips to get the best paint finish.

I also sanded down the top and restained it.

Sanding the dresser with a SurfPrep sander
Mixing peacoat and jitterbug to get the blue color

To create this stunning blue, I used a mix of two Country Chic Paint colors, ¼ peacoat and ¾ jitterbug mixed together.

I sprayed it on with my Fuji Q4 paint sprayer that I love so so so much! This thing sprays like a dream for a completely perfect, fine finish.  

Learn more about my Fuji Q4 paint sprayer here!

I add a little bit of water to my chalk paint and always, always run it through a mesh filter to make sure no clumps or anything can clog my sprayer.

Using a Fuji paint sprayer to paint the dresser

You could brush the chalk paint on as well, and this method will work with basically any brand of chalk paint. I just love Country Chic Paint and these colors.

Related: How to Paint Furniture Without Brush Marks

I sprayed on three coats of paint, letting the chalk paint dry completely in between coats.

While I waited for the last coat to dry, I cleaned out my paint sprayer and let it dry.

Topcoat with Waterbased Polyurethane

When the chalk paint was all dry, I put my absolute favorite topcoat in it.

The Varathane polyurethane is water-based and gives the paint a really nice durable finish.

Spraying polyurethane on for the top coat

I put the poly through the mesh filter, and then I added just a little bit of water to make the poly take a little bit longer to dry.

Click over to this post about how to spray polyurethane for my best tips on spraying it.

If it takes a little bit longer to dry, then it will have more time to spread out and lay flat, making the finish even more perfect and much more soft and smooth.

Anyway, I sprayed one good coat of poly all over the chalk paint.

Do you seal chalk paint before applying glaze?

YES! This step with the poly is really crucial to having success with glazing over chalk paint.

If you don’t put a coat or two of poly over the chalk paint, the glaze will soak right into the really porous chalk paint, making it impossible to work with the glaze.

Read more about all the options for top-coating furniture here!

Sanding In Between Coats of Polyurethane

So I let that coat of poly dry, and then I sanded it smooth with a fine or very fine SurfPrep foam sponge (which is about the equivalent to 400 grit sandpaper).

Sanding by hand between coats of polyurethane

The sanding isn’t required, but man oh man, it really helps make the final finish really soft and smooth.

 I didn’t push hard when I sanded by hand. I just lightly sanded it to help smooth it out.

The Best Way to Cleanup the Dust from Sanding

After it was all soft and smooth, I used my shop vac to suck up all the dust, and followed it up with a wipe down with a sticky tack cloth.

Vacuuming the dust of the dresser

These tack cloths really really really pick up any extra dust that is left over. And they don’t leave any lint behind.

They do feel really funny (and sticky) though, so a lot of times I wear a glove when I use a tack cloth.

More Coats of Polyurethane

When all of the dust was completely gone, I sprayed one more coat of poly all over the dresser.

Then I let it dry for extra long.

How long after chalk paint can you glaze?

After 24 hours, it’s safe to start glazing!

I like to let the poly on the chalk paint dry at least overnight, but really it’s best if it sits for 24 hours before moving onto the next step.

If you start glazing before the poly has a chance to really dry hard and start to cure, then all of the moisture from the glaze will go right through the still soft poly and right to your paint.

Then when you start wiping and working with the glaze, the paint can easily rub off.

Glaze with Valspar Antiquing Glaze

I poured some glaze into a plastic bowl so I could add a bit of water to it.

I like to add water to my glaze so then it takes a bit longer to dry, giving me more time to work with it.

Pouring valspar antiquing glaze into a bowl
Adding a little bit of water with the glaze

Now it’s time to actually start glazing!!

I typically use a super cheap paint brush from the dollar store for glazing, but I didn’t have any on hand. So I grabbed my favorite brush for everything else, the Zibra Round brush.

How do you apply glaze over paint?

I brushed the glaze on in one small section, making sure to get the glaze in any corner or detail.

Brushing the glaze on with a paintbrush

I like to let the glaze sit for probably 20-40 seconds. But I don’t want the glaze to dry before I can get back to it.

Then, wearing gloves, I used a baby wipe to wipe off most of the glaze.

Wiping most of the glaze off with a baby wipe

This first coat of glaze is really just a light coat that puts the glaze all over.

We’ll go back with another coat to add more glaze in certain spots.

Whenever I wipe off the glaze, I try to wipe in the same direction that the wood grain would be going. And I try to use long strokes instead of short strokes.

In these panels, I kind of pushed the glaze into the top and bottom, but I also tried to pick up most of the glaze and not leave it all in the edges.

I slowly made my way around the whole dresser, working in small sections, or on one drawer at a time.

It’s kind of hard to see the glaze once I wiped most of it off, especially because of the dark paint, and the shadows.

But I promise there was just a little bit of glaze left over the entire dresser. Just one thin and even coat all over.

How Long to Let Glaze Dry for?

Then I let the glaze dry for a day.

If you put wet glaze over glaze that hasn’t had a long time to dry, then the 2nd coat of glaze will just pull up the 1st coat of glaze.

So you have to really let the 1st coat of glaze dry completely before moving on.

I know, there is a lot of wait time in this project. But it’s totally worth it in my opinion!

Second Coat of Glaze

Once the first coat was dry, I came back with the same brush (that I had kept wrapped up in plastic to keep it wet) and put just a bit of glaze in the areas that I wanted some shading.

Mostly in the corners and edges of the piece.

How to glaze over chalk paint
Wiping some of the glaze off with a wipe

Then I wiped some of it back off, trying to keep some of the glaze still there, but also trying to blend it into the light, thin first coat of glaze.

I’m not going to lie, this part is probably the hardest part for me.

Just the wetness of wiping with a baby wipe will make the finish look different until it dries again. So it’s hard to tell exactly what it’s going to look like.

So I just try to get it to look the best that I can tell, and honestly hope for the best. Haha

At this point it’s not so much science, but it’s a lot of artistry and playing around until it looks good.

Once I was happy with one section, I moved around the rest of the dresser until there was shadowing in all of the details.

One little tip – if you hate how the glaze looks, you can always paint over it and start again.

OR you can tint some clear glaze with the paint color of the dresser. Then put the blue glaze over the dry brown glaze on the dresser to blend in the colors and kind of hide the brown glaze.

After I was overall happy with the glaze, I let the glaze dry overnight.

Topcoat with Water-Based Polyurethane

The next day I put more poly into my paint sprayer, and sprayed 3 more coats of poly onto the dresser, letting each coat dry completely.

Spraying 3 more coats of waterbased polyurethane

I also sanded the poly smooth in between coats to make it extra soft and smooth.

Here’s what this dresser looks like now!

How to glaze over chalk paint

Glazing isn’t for the faint of heart, or for a really fast project, but man, isn’t that antiqued look worth it?!

How to glaze over chalk paint

What does glaze do for paint?

It accentuates any details that you have on your furniture because it stays in the grooves of any details.

It also makes the paint color richer and deeper.

Do you have to put a clear coat over chalk paint?


Chalk paint is super porous and anything that you put on it will soak into the paint.

So the glaze will soak right into the chalk paint, and you won’t have any chance to remove the glaze, or move it around.

The polyurethane clear coat makes it possible to work with the glaze.

Should I use wax or polyurethane over chalk paint?

I prefer the durability of polyurethane over chalk paint.

Plus, if you mess up and want to paint over it, you don’t have to remove the wax (paint doesn’t stick to wax!) before painting again.

When you’re glazing though, you can’t use wax on the chalk paint.

Glaze won’t stick to wax!

If you want to wax, you’ll want to use a mixture of clear wax and antiquing wax to create the antiqued glazed look.

How many coats polyurethane over chalk paint?

Apply one coat of polyurethane before glazing the chalk paint.

Apply three coats of polyurethane after the glaze.

How to glaze over chalk paint


How to glaze over chalk paint

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  1. Mary Poelker says:

    I love this blue dresser! I have a question about applications though. This is my first project and I don’t have a sprayer. What poly do you advise to use that’s in a spray can? I’m afraid of spatter. I thought I saw a video of you comparing products but can’t find it now.
    Thank you for your guidance. I’m getting more confident in attempting to redo a dresser and chest on chest that was my husband’s grandmother’s. Lots of repairs to be made first though.
    Mary Poelker

    1. Hey Mary!
      I recommend the minwax polycrylic in a spray can if you don’t have a sprayer.
      Best of luck on your project!

  2. Sue Sherman says:

    I just stumbled upon this and it was perfect timing except I’ve already applied the glaze to the top of table. I didn’t know about the top coat being so important prior to glazing. I want to layer another color on top of the glaze I have. I assume it’s to later for the top coat or just go ahead and apply the glaze? Also,can I sand between coats of glaze? I love all the work you do. You explain everything so clearly. Thank you again!

    1. Hey Sue!
      Oh no, did you have a hard time with the glaze since there wasn’t a topcoat under it?
      You can still put a top coat on before putting on more glaze if you want to control how much goes on. Or you could skip the topcoat again and just do the glaze.
      Either way, if it gets messed up, you can go over it with your paint and start over.
      Or you could try adding some of your original paint to your glaze and try to tone down the different colors of glaze.
      And yep, you can sand between coats of glaze if you would like.
      Thank you so much for the love and support! It means the world to me!

  3. Yes, I would use the spray can version. I like the minwax waterbased polyacrylic in the spray can.

  4. Where is the hardware from? Do you have a link? It’s gorgeous!

    1. I think it was from Hobby Lobby.

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