Update your antique china cabinet with some blue and white paint and fall in love with it again! Today we’re sharing this show-stopping chippy blue painted hutch makeover!
Get more milk paint tips, tricks and furniture makeovers here
It’s no secret that I love a really chippy painted piece of furniture.
The real secret though is how to get a chippy painted finish every time.
Powdered milk paint is the easiest way to create an authentic looking chipping paint, but even powdered milk paint doesn’t cut it sometimes.
But recently I discovered a product that reacts to milk paint in a way that makes it chip a lot, every single time!
Keep reading to learn more about this 1 step that will give you a chippy painted finish every time!
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The Old Hutch Makeover:
- Strip the wood turned legs down to bare wood.
- Clean the whole piece to remove any dirt and grime.
- Prime / Paint the inside white.
- Paint the outside blue.
- Seal the paint inside and out with a clear topcoat.
- Stain the legs.
- Attach the hardware and enjoy!!
Get links to all the supplies I used at the bottom of this post.
Step 1: Strip the Wood Legs
This is the messiest part of the makeover, so I did it very first!
If the legs on your piece of furniture are in good condition, you might want to skip this step. But I went all in and stripped these legs to raw wood.
Here is a basic overview of how to strip wood legs. If you need a more in-depth tutorial, this tutorial on how to remove stain from detailed wood is perfect!
- Lay down cardboard to protect your floor.
- Brush a thick layer of Citristrip stripper onto the legs.
- Let the Citristrip sit overnight.
- Remove the stain and stripper with a plastic putty knife and steel wool.
- Remove the excess gunk with steel wool dipped in mineral spirits.
- Wipe down with paper towels and let dry completely while you work on the rest of the piece.
- Sand with 220 grit sandpaper to remove any stain leftover.
- You’re ready to stain!
Step 2: Clean!
After removing all of the hardware, clean your piece of furniture down to remove any dirt, grime, or oil. All of those things will repel the paint and mess it up.
Step 3: Prime / Paint the Inside White
Do I really need to prime before painting?
No matter what paint companies suggest, it is ALWAYS best to prime before paint.
A lot of no prep paint claims that you don’t need to use primer (because of their paint’s great adhesion)
They don’t take into account laminate furniture that is really hard for paint to stick to. (Learn how to paint laminate furniture here!)
But what most paint companies don’t tell you is that painted wood can cause bleed through (red, yellow or orange spots) that won’t go away, no matter how many coats of paint you paint. (Learn more about what primers will prevent bleed through here!)
Bleed through really shows it’s ugly face on lighter colored paints, but it can also appear through dark-colored paints too.
The only way to prevent bleedthrough is to prime with a really good stain blocking primer.
That’s why I primed before painting the inside of this hutch.
The very best stain blocking primer for this case is this BIN shellac primer because it’s white (so it helps you paint less coats of white paint).
I like the spray can version linked above, but you can also get it in quarts and gallons too.
BIN dries fast and can be painted over after only 30 minutes!
I painted 2 coats of BIN on the inside of this hutch before painting it white.
So after the primer dried I painted it white.
You can use chalk paint, or honestly whatever paint suits your fancy. Learn more about the best paint for furniture here.
The BEST way to paint furniture white
If you have a paint sprayer, the very best way (fastest and easiest!) to paint furniture white is with this product called Enduro Poly.
It comes in black or white (or you can tint it to any color you want!)
But it has to be sprayed. Trust me on that!
But they have a brushable version ( I haven’t tried, but I’ve heard good things about it!)
It dries fast, sprays beautifully, doesn’t have to be thinned, and it truly has a durable topcoat built in, so after 3 coats, you are done!
Learn more about how to paint with enduro poly here!
Step 4: Paint the Outside with Blue Milk Paint
Once the inside is painted, it’s time to move onto the outside!
The Secret to a Chippy Paint Finish Every time!
I knew I wanted a chippy painted finish, and honestly, I had already scuff sanded this hutch before I really knew what I wanted to do with it.
So I knew that the chance of getting a chippy painted finish was really really low. (Sanding will help the milk paint stick instead of chip!)
So I busted out my secret weapon.
BOSS is a water-based primer that helps prevent bleed through. I like to use it in the winter when I am inside (because shellac based products have a very very strong smell!)
One time I primed a piece with BOSS and then a few months later I decided to milk paint that piece. (Click here to see that piece)
It chipped all over, really really well!
Then I tested it on a few other pieces and got the same results. Every single time the milk paint chipped really well! (See the other pieces I’ve used BOSS on to get a chippy finish here)
So, I brushed on two coats of Dixie Belle BOSS on the hutch, letting the second coat dry overnight.
Custom Blue Milk Paint
This blue is actually a color that was made from a few different colors of Shackteau Interiors Milk Paint. Here is the recipe for this color.
Custom Blue Paint Recipe:
- 4 Tablespoons Coolidge Blue
- 2 Tablespoons Harbor Blue
- 2 Tablespoons Blue Moon
- 1 Tablespoon Coastal Fog
- 1 Tablespoon Sand
After the primer had enough time to dry, I mixed up the powdered milk paint, and brushed on a couple of coats.
Before the paint dried, I used a hair dryer on it’s hottest and highest setting to speed up the drying process. The heat makes the paint chip even more!
Once both coats were dry, I sanded the milk paint down with 220 grit sandpaper to make the chipping paint chip even more.
Step 5: Seal the Paint with a Clear Topcoat
Milk paint has to be sealed, and my favorite sealer is this water-based poly.
I like to spray it on, especially with chippy paint! (Beware, the paint will chip even more when it reacts to the water-based poly!)
Learn ALL of my tips and tricks on How to Spray Polyurethane here!
You can brush it on too!
Here are more great ways to seal milk paint
If you use Enduro Poly or the Brushable Enamel, you don’t need to seal the inside. But if you used chalk paint on the inside of the hutch, you’ll need to seal your paint.
Step 6: Stain the legs
Instead of using an actual wood stain on these legs, I opted to brush on dark wax.
Dark wax is basically wood stain mixed with furniture wax, so in essence, I am still staining, right? haha
I just used a wax brush and brushed a little bit of dark wax all over the legs. After the wax was dry, I “buffed” the wax with a lint-free rag to make them nice and smooth.
I like using dark wax on the legs because the wax adds a level of protection to the stain. But its almost a one-step process instead of staining and then applying some polyurethane for protection.
Polyurethane is much more durable than wax though, so I don’t use dark wax to stain the top of my furniture. I just like to use it on the legs that won’t get much traffic or wear to them.
Step 7: Attach the hardware and enjoy!!
Attach your new hardware (or put the old hardware back on.) Let your paint dry at least 24 hours before putting anything on the paint. Be extra careful with your furniture for at least 3 weeks.
- Old China Hutch
- Krud Kutter and old (damp) rag
- 220 Grit Sandpaper
- Water-Based Poly (my favorite kind!)
- Paint Brush or paint sprayer (these are my favorite!)
Stripping and Staining the Legs
- Citristrip (the best stripper out there!)
- Cheap Paint Brush (to apply the Citristrip to your piece – also a metal bowl is helpful to pour the Citristrip in)
- Gloves (if these chemicals can remove old stain, they sure can make your skin burn)
- Drop Cloth (or cardboard box to protect the ground)
- Scotch Brite Pads
- Steel Wool (I used 0000 grit)
- Toothbrush (can’t get into the small cracks without this! Also, toothpicks and q-tips work for even smaller spaces)
- Mineral Spirits (Dip all the scrubbers in mineral spirits to help remove all the finish and Citristrip)
- Plastic Cup (Holds the mineral spirits for easy dipping capability)
- Paper Towels
Inside of the Hutch
- BIN Shellac Primer
- White Paint (if you have a sprayer, this is the BEST! but they have a brushable version here)
Outside of the Hutch
- Dixie Belle BOSS primer (the secret to a chippy finish every time!)
- Powdered Milk Paint (colors mixed: Coolidge Blue, Harbor Blue, Blue Moon, Coastal Fog, Sand) Get the exact recipe above^^
PIN THIS TUTORIAL FOR LATER