This week I tried Rust-oleum’s milk paint. And I was completely surprised by it! So here’s my Rust-oleum Milk Paint Review.
PIN THIS TUTORIAL FOR LATER
I picked these nightstands up from our local thrift store. One was $15 and the other was $25.
But they were around the same height and size… so you know what that means? Yep, I decided then and there that I would make them into a mismatched set of nightstands.
Single nightstands are hard to sell, and I can see why! I don’t have a use for a single nightstand or end table.
So when I can make a pair from two different tables, I jump for the opportunity.
Rust-oleum Milk Paint Review
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. I also may earn from other qualifying purchases with other companies or get free product to review and use. All opinions are my own.
- KwikWood to Fill in the Hardware Holes
- Krud Kutter and an Old Rag
- 220 Grit Sandpaper
- Painters Tape
- Clear Shellac in a Spray Can
- Rustoluem Milk Paint in Eclipse
- Zibra Round Paint Brush
- Fine Grit Sanding Sponge
- My Favorite Topcoat
- Tile Grout Sponge
Painting Furniture with Rust-oleum Milk Paint
- Prep for Paint
- Sand It Smooth
- Paint a Second Coat
- Sand It Smooth
- Topcoat It
Step 1: Prep for Paint
First I got the tables ready for paint… the way that I get almost every piece of furniture ready for paint.
Learn more about how to prepare furniture for paint here.
We removed the hardware.
The hardware on the drum table was nailed in as well as screwed in, so I had to pry them off.
And then I filled in the 3 fake drawer hardware holes with Kwikwood. Learn why I love to use Kwikwood to fill old hardware holes here.
Then my husband cleaned the tables with Krud Kutter to remove any grease, oils or grime that was possibly left on the surface.
After the hardware hole filler was dry, I sanded it down smooth and level with the wood around it.
I also took a couple of minutes to tape off the drawers so I wouldn’t get paint on the sides or inside of each drawer.
And then I sprayed them with 2 coats of shellac to help make the paint stick. This stuff is kind of like primer, but it’s clear, so you don’t see it under the paint.
And yeah, it blows my mind that this stuff makes paint stick as well as it does. Here’s what they looked like after 2 coats of clear shellac.
Step 2: Paint with Rust-oleum Milk Paint
For these tables, I tried the Rust-oluem milk paint in the color Eclipse.
I used my Zibra round paint brush to brush the paint on everywhere, using the paint straight out of the container.
The round brush is my favorite paint brush because the shape of it makes it so easy to paint flat surfaces as well as curved surfaces and all of the detail that is on furniture.
I tried to paint in long brush strokes that went with the wood grain so it would minimize the brush marks left behind.
I was surprised by the first coat. It didn’t have as good of coverage as I was expecting for black paint.
I guess I shouldn’t have been too surprised because it says on the container how you can build it up to an opaque finish.
Honestly, I think it might be a great paint to do a wash with.
Here’s what it looked like when it was dry. But when I felt it… I was completely shocked. It felt super gritty and chalky.. not smooth at all!
It felt more like powdered milk paint can feel. Actually, I think it’s even more gritty than powdered milk paint. I was expecting this paint to be more like general finishes milk paint than the real milk paint that comes in a powder.
Step 3: Sand It Smooth
So, before I painted the next coat, I sanded it all smooth with fine sandpaper.
Step 4: Paint a Second Coat
And I mixed the paint more just to make sure the grittiness wasn’t just a user error.
And then I painted a second coat all over.
Here’s what it looked like after the second coat of paint was dry.
Step 5: Sand It Smooth
The second coat of paint was still very gritty, so I had to sand it smooth again.
At this point I gave up my hope to have these pieces not distressed. I could have switched to a different paint if I really wanted them to not be distressed.
But I wanted this makeover to be a true Rust-oleum Milk Paint makeover.
And with how gritty the paint is when it dries, I wouldn’t want to not sand it smooth.
Step 6: Topcoat It
So after everything was smooth, and the dust cleaned off, I got ready to topcoat the milk paint.
First I stirred my favorite water-based polyurethane really good. (Yep, stirring is super important!)
And then I poured it into a separate container, and I mixed a little bit of the milk paint into it to tint it.
I’ve found that tinting the water-based poly with the paint helps the poly finish look much better. And it helps hide streaks and the fogginess that you can see especially in dark paint colors.
I used a mesh filter to try to filter out any of the grittiness from the milk paint.
And then I used a tile grout sponge to wipe the poly onto the milk paint.
I’m definitely not very experienced with applying poly by hand… but I tried to work quickly, without going over the same areas more than once or twice.
I personally prefer to spray poly on with either a spray can or my paint sprayer, but I know it’s not always possible to… so I’m trying to figure out the best way to apply it by hand and avoid getting streaks and fogginess.
Maybe a foam roller would be better? If you have perfected the science of applying poly by hand, especially over dark colors, please share in the comments!
Anyway, after the first coat was dry, here is what the tops looked like in the light.
The way I wiped it on left some ridges behind, so I sanded the tops down to remove those ridges.
And then I applied two more coats of poly.
Here’s what they look like now.
I put the hardware from the drum table on both pieces, and I love the traditional look that they give these antique pieces.
Rust-oleum Milk Paint Review
Overall, I’m really happy with how they turned out.
The distressed look is definitely not what I imagined when I started this makeover…But that’s the look you get with this paint.
It did even chip a little bit on the top like powdered milk paint does.
The paint is so interesting. It’s kind of a mix between the real powdered casein milk paint, and chalk paint.
What do you think of this makeover?
Watch the makeover process with this video!
Frequently Asked Questions
How Durable is Rust-oleum Milk Paint?
Just for fun, I scratched at it after the 2nd coat of paint to make sure the paint was sticking well.
It didn’t scratch off at all! It did leave some marks behind, but that’s typical for matte paint.
I even painted it on another piece of wood from a different furniture makeover, without prepping it at all… and scratched at that one to see what it would do without the cleaning and shellac.
Yep, that one scratched right off.
But I tested it again after a week or so, and it isn’t scratching off anymore!
Does Rust-oleum Milk Paint Need a Top Coat?
Yes! Without a topcoat, milk paint is very porous. Even lightly touching it will leave white marks. So as you may imagine, setting anything on it, and daily use will leave marks all over it, and will most likely scratch it up.
A top coat of either water-based polyurethane or wax will make the milk paint more durable, but it will also make it wipeable, and less dusty looking.
I personally prefer Varathane’s water-based polyurethane because it’s extra durable and it dries and cures quickly.
But wax is a great alternative if you don’t mind less durability and waiting longer for it to fully dry.
Is Rust-oleum Milk Paint Real Milk Paint?
No. Rust-oleum milk paint is not a real casein milk paint like powdered milk paint is.
But it does seem to act similar to real milk paint (it doesn’t chip like real milk paint though!)
It feels gritty like real milk paint does, and it distresses beautifully as well. It’s also really good for creating a washed look.
It’s already mixed up so you don’t have to mix powder and water together as you do with real milk paint.
Do I Have to Sand Before Using Milk Paint?
No.. and Yes
Rustoleum Milk Paint will stick to wood furniture that hasn’t been even lightly sanded. But will it stick good enough??
What Happened When we Tested NOT Sanding
I actually brushed it on a finished piece of wood that came from another furniture makeover. I had cleaned it, but I didn’t prep it any other way.
For the first couple of days, it scratched off very easily with just my fingernail.
Then I tested it again after a week had gone by, and it is barely scratching off.
I’m going to guess (and I’ll try to update this later) that once it dries for a month that it will not scratch anymore.
Priming Instead of Sanding
On the other hand, I prepped these nightstands by cleaning and then priming with clear shellac.
I didn’t scuff sand before painting.
The paint did not scratch off at all even a few hours after I painted the second coat on.
The clear shellac is the biggest difference here!
Best Practice for Best Durability
If you want the most durable painted finish, you’ll need to take some time to lightly sand the wood furniture with 220 grit sandpaper to make sure the Rust-oleum milk paint has the best adhesion.
PIN THIS FOR LATER